[Shaanxi Zhong'en Environmental Technology Co., Ltd.] Sharing: What types of fittings are typically used with PE pipes? What are some common issues?

PE pipe fittings come in a variety of forms, like straight connectors, reducing versions, tees (both equal and reducing), right angle elbows, threaded pieces, and even those little end caps Many of these parts are thoughtfully designed and usually hold up well under everyday use, offering good connections that keep leaks at bay. Most people find them pretty straightforward to put together or take apart—they're not too fussy or complicated. One subtle bonus: they're simple to recycle and they look tidy once installed, which definitely counts for something. In the world of PE pipes, these fittings feel almost tailor-made to get the job done

Now, if you're laying out a pipeline without any sharp turns, sometimes you can skip using extra fittings altogether. Of course, when joints or bends can't be avoided, the choice of which fitting to use depends entirely on what that stretch of piping demands

PE pipes have a bit of a reputation for flexibility. They handle bumps and vibration pretty well. That said, their elongation isn’t the strongest compared to what you might expect, especially if the pipe has to bend or gets compressed. The trick really comes down to what's going on with the pipe's internal structure—something you can't exactly boost or force with processing tweaks. For diameter changes or making turns, using straight or elbow connectors tends to work best since stretching the pipe itself has its limits. If you're working with steel pipes instead, bending them with heat or force is an option—but doing so can make the walls thin in spots, and the overall shape might shift a little. Larger pipes? You’re likely back to using specialized joints, whether by welding or threading, particularly in situations where a strong hold matters. Adjusting diameters on steel isn’t too different; it almost always falls back on straight-through connectors

About those PE pipe fittings—there’s more to it than picking the right style. When it comes to making them, the whole injection molding process presents its own set of challenges

During production, sink marks sometimes pop up in thick sections or behind any support ribs and nut inserts. If this is something you've noticed, you're definitely not alone

What causes these sudden dips? Often it’s a matter of not enough material reaching certain spots, or the nozzle size being a bit off. Maybe the gate or the channel isn’t quite wide or deep enough and the melted plastic just can't move freely. Sometimes the material cools down before the mold fills, and other times, it’s just too thick or thin in certain areas. Little things—like uneven temperatures, not enough pressure, too-slow injection, or even using a softer plastic—can all make a difference

So what to do about these sink marks in PE fittings

Start by making sure the mold is at the right temperature—too much heat in thick spots can cause trouble, but too little in thin ones can do the same. Another trick is to hold the pressure a tad longer, giving the plastic time to settle as it cools

For thinner areas, speeding up the injection sometimes helps spread the material more evenly

Placing the gate where the part is thickest can also make a difference, bringing more material to the areas most in need

Trying to keep the wall thickness consistent throughout the part goes a long way in reducing these marks too

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